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Monday , January 25

PAPILLON: lingerie … and much more
“The clients are less downhearted, it’s a very good show with good frequentation and a good level of references,” commented Christelle Lavaure, Managing Director of Papillon Ribbon France. Having suffered the same slowdown due to reduced client volumes as other accessories specialists, Christelle Lavaure remains enthusiastic: “Since we moved the creative department over to France from Canada, a year and a half ago, we have been able to step up precision with regard to fabrics, shapes and colours. That has enabled us to increase our market share.” Highly aesthetic, the Spring 2011 collection gives centre stage to bows, richly decorated with diamante, beads, shells or elaborately folded in an origami style…elegant bows which have found their way onto perfume bottles by the likes of Dior, Givenchy and Cacharel. Papillon has succeeded in winning over the packaging market, cosmetics (bottles, promotional packages, gifts) but also the chocolate & confectionary, wine & spirits markets. These satellite markets have generated 40% of turnover for Papillon France which is keen to develop the company through these manufacturing solutions echoing the group strategy, which now generates 80% of turnover in the packaging domain.


DOGI back on its feet
Dogi has promised that March 2010 will see the conclusion of the insolvency proceedings which the El Masnou-based company has been negotiating since last June. “The company is currently reaching an agreement with the majority of its creditors. Despite far slower demand, the Spanish unit of Dogi Internationale reported a positive period during the last quarter of 2009,” confirmed Sergi Domenech, Dogi’s Marketing Director. Cutting staff numbers by 75, and above all, moving the unit to a brand new, high-performance factory, employing 230 people in 24,000 m², should enable Dogi to rationalize production without neglecting creativity. “Improving quality and productivity in the three old units had become a bit tricky. Without counting the fact that 2008/2009 was not a great year in creative terms for Dogi,” admits Sergi Domenech. Two new concepts should enable Dogi to revive its creative flair: the “Dogitech” range of technical and shaping products for functional articles and plus-sizes, as well as “Invisible” a new generation of second-skin fabrics with new, more contrasting aesthetics.


ALBERT BÖSCH returns to its first loves
The Austrian embroiderer, Albert Bösch has just made a successful return to the Interfilière trade show. “We deliberately took two years off to concentrate on ready-to-wear. Upon returning to the show, we have found a high calibre of Italian, French and German visitors. These clients are all really on the look out for new products,” explains Nicole Bösch, Market Manager. The Austrian embroiderer, which is putting the finishing touches to a brand new information package for clients, attracted the attention of visitors with a particularly visual and refined collection: embroidery on tulle enhanced with layered guipure trim, little strings of flowers, plissé effects in a 1950s spirit, embroidery with thermocut flowers for loungewear in particular and motifs inspired by a camouflage spirit. Created in 1947, the family firm which is currently run by Raimond Bösch of the third generation, employs around thirty people. The vast majority of Austrian production is exported, in particular to West Africa for the ready-to-wear embroidery collection and to Europe for the lingerie collection.


BOUTONS KOCHER looks back at a century of history
Exhibiting for the first time at Interfilière, the Jura-based family firm created by the grandfather of the current director, Patrick Kocher, will be celebrating its centenary this year. The history of this impressive company is set to travel the world: since the passengers on 15,000 Air France flights will be given an opportunity to discover Boutons Kocher’s original creations during a film on the luxury industry in the Franche-Comté region. Boutons Kocher’s expertise extends beyond buttons: buckles, rings, baubles, hooks-and-eyes, a variety of nature-inspired motifs, in natural materials and plastic – but not metal – a wide range of decorative elements that allow clients to customize and personalize beachwear and lingerie articles. Although the company offers two annual collections featuring 200 to 300 designs per season, the vast majority of products are created exclusively on behalf of brands. “Working in partnership with our clients is crucial, not only from the point of view of style, shape and colour, but also with regard to researching materials,” explains Patrick Kocher. While the archives feature articles created in bone, ivory and shell, today’s new products are more likely to incorporate fabrics for example. Boutons Kocher did not wait for its 100th birthday to become environmentally-responsible. It has been reintegrating manufacturing waste (both natural and synthetic materials) back into the production process for years. It just goes to show that we should always follow the example of our elders.


NATEX is learning to work differently
“I know that a number of product lines will work very well in 2010 but, for the moment, clients are still taking time to make up their minds,” began Simon Morgenstern. Convinced that new working practices are now required, he feels obliged to anticipate order placement by confirming raw materials orders. “I understand that our clients want to avoid taking risks. So it’s up to us to work quickly to be able to deliver within six weeks,” he continued. Clients forecast their requirements but remain overly cautious and are content to order 30% of forecasts, even when it comes to a number of “zero risk” embroidery designs. For summer 2011, these include lace using lighter grounds and yarns which are closer to Chantilly lace or retro-style lace with broderie anglaise effects. Large-repeat lace with layered floral motifs and arabesques, inspired by ready-to-wear trends and created on Cliptronic machines, were also popular at the show. “However, these products need to be worked on more fully with the client,” cautioned Simon Morgenstern without hesitation.




Sunday, January 24

DESSEILLES steps up creation
With the arrival of a new Leavers lace designer, the creative department at Desseilles now consists of some dozen people. “In view of our clients’ cautious attitude, we are taking the gamble of driving the company forwards by offering ever more designs. It’s important to compensate for lower volumes with a higher level of creativity,” explains Sylvain Pigeon. Satisfied, the company’s France and Asia Sales Director described the first day of the show as “very interesting, with high-calibre American and Asian buyers.” Featuring around 100 designs, the collection has been reorganized into segments for the forthcoming season. It centres around Fairy, the starting-price range with twenty-five fine and light Textronic lace designs, created in France or the Latvian production unit (Lauma), Insolente, a creative range of Textronic jacquards, with around thirty more elaborate designs, designed in France for the US and French markets in particular. Revolution is more specifically designed for shapewear and larger widths, with a number of designs taken from the archives. Diva is the Leavers lace collection.


SOLSTISS and MARCO LAGATTOLLA convincing results in the intimates market
While the most cutting-edge brands were instantly won-over by light-reflecting metallic lace, it was the geometric effects that proved the most popular at Solstiss. Offering an alternative to all the floral lace, geometrics with netting appealed to the company’s major clients as well as new ones, from Paris and the rest of France, including a number who have just set up shop. The highly segmented product range produced by Solstiss, which mainly operates in the Haute Couture market, reassures clients who remain prudent and prefer to commit to lower quantities. For the Italian company, Marco Lagattolla, which is also tackling the lingerie market, it was a new pure silk lace, developed this season with around ten or so designs, that proved particularly popular with clients, especially British firms.


BILLON CREA’LYS makes service its top priority
The Lyon-based company, which has been proposing a lingerie collection under the Crea’lys name for three years now, is taking advantage of the flexibility of its integrated facility to offer top-notch service. “We want our collection to serve as a starting point for our clients who have an ever greater need to stand out from competitors. Each client is free to select the level of elasticity, colours and weight required with a high degree of flexibility as regards volumes. That’s got to be reassuring,” explained Xavier Minsac, Commercial Manager for Europe. Absent from the January session for the last three years, Billon Crea’Lys has returned with a collection of fine knits in coordinating fantasy motifs, including the Day’Lys satin range, extra-matt and coordinating end-on-end fabrics. “Saturday was a particularly good day. Our Sil clients came to chat, exchange ideas and give us their views. That’s what we need to get ahead at a proximity-based show like Interfilière,” enthused Xavier Minsac, who fully intends to drive business forward in order to double sales in the lingerie market.


PENN TEXTILE SOLUTIONS is born
The restructuring plan for Penn Elastic GmbH, which began in September after a succession of redundancy schemes implemented since 2003, resulted in the creation of a new company in December. Officially launched on January 1st 2010, Penn Textile Solutions GmbH was able to take back 174 employees on a full or part-time basis, following recapitalization. The company is to be run by Markus Regenstein, Chairman of the Board, and Thomas Siemensmeyer, Sales Director of the former Penn Elastic. The new management team is keen to convey the following message: “Our name has changed but not our reliability”. Solutions, Seduction, Performance and Respect are the four development levers for the spring/summer 2011 collection with two strong collections in particular: the “Dream Fit” line, featuring a range of shapewear that is sexy and functional in equal measures, and “Dream Respect” an organic cotton range which confirms Penn Textiles Solutions’ commitment to an environmentally-responsible policy.


PIAVE MAITEX reorganizes its collection
Spring 2011 will be based around two new development areas for the Italian knit specialist: Oversexy groups together all the knits designed for corsetry and shapewear which have been revised and updated with new fashion-forward colour-ways and reworked surface effects. Loungewear collection brings together all the knitted fabrics in natural fibres, cotton, Modal® and MicroModal®, cotton blends with thrown yarns. It is worth noting that although many of these knits are cotton-based, they are also “pre-mouldable”, since Piave Maitex has used a rigorous selection process for the yarns and fibres in this range. The environmentally-friendly Greenline has been expanded. In addition to recycled polyester and Biophyl™ products, it now includes new reconverted polyamide knits, using unused Recco yarns that are returned to production.


SERAM wants to increase the availability of DGE technologies
A new name, new logo and new approach for DGE Engineering; the company created by Jean-Jacques Béhar, which specializes in high-tech transfer processes, was taken over by SERAM last July. “We wanted to take advantage of the wonderfully creative aspect of these technologies by making them more accessible in terms of products and prices and enhancing their ease of use,” explains Hervé Durand, CEO of Seram. The new company name is also more explicit: DGE International Alternative Textile Transfert. Although Jean-Jacques Béhar, who will be retiring in the not-too-distant future, will remain very involved in R&D until 2012, the development and commercial side has been relocated to Saint-Just-Malmont, near Saint-Etienne, in order to create commercial synergies with the Seram team, employing some twenty people. At the same time as developing DGE, which currently generates a “modest” turnover of one million euros, Seram is continuing its development in the US, where it opened an office two years ago, as well as China, where it operates a logistics and production centre.


SEDATEX advances its pawns in the lingerie market
The family-owned Spanish firm Sedatex (turnover of €100 million with four vertical production units), which participated at Interfilière in September with its début lingerie collection, is making slow but sure progress. “We have reworked the collection with new base fabrics and finishes. We have a wide choice of prints with several thousand designs that we can adapt for the lingerie, nightwear and homewear markets,” explains Gwendoline Hodent, who handles the French market. Although Sedatex is relying on the French market to develop its lingerie collection, Central and South American markets have proved to be the most reactive so far (Brazil, Colombia and Mexico). Very pleased with the first day of the show, Gwendoline Hodent is now hoping that all the new contacts made will soon confirm their orders.


BE BE KNITTING is on a roll
Following the ROSE programme launched last year (Recycling – Organic – Safe – Ecofriendly), Be Be Knitting is stepping up a gear with a new environmental programme entitled SENSE: Sensual – Environment – Nature – Save – Ecology. This new programme features cotton blends and organic cottons with ecological dyes created using pigments and natural dyestuffs extracted from plants. Within the framework of its environmentally-responsible policy, Be Be Knitting is also developing new base fabrics using Cupro. “Because it’s quite an expensive yarn, we prefer to offer it in polyamide blends for the moment. This enables us to bring prices down by 50%,” clarifies Isabelle Phang, who runs the French office. It is also worth noting the arrival in the collection of new recycled polyamides, created using Nilit yarns, and the development of a range of organic cotton, offered in blends with a Supima yarn for fine and very compact knits.




Saturday, January 23

CAP SUD J3 steers a smooth course
Created just a year ago, the company Cap Sud J3 directed by Fabien Jabouley has achieved its initial objectives: winning-over clients with a collection of creative lace at highly competitive prices. In order to offer worry-free production flexibility Cap Sud J3 divides production between three units in North Africa, Eastern Europe and Asia. The three sites are equipped identically with Karlmeyer machines and can therefore produce any lace in the collection without affecting quality. Employing around ten sales staff in its initial year, Cap Sud J3 has succeeded in balancing sales between France and exports. “The first day of the show got off to a great start very quickly. We have met a very high calibre of visitors. 2010 is looking good”, commented Fabien Jabouley.


BISCHOFF keen to run new unit at maximum speed
Frustrated by the fact that he cannot yet make the most of the production capacities of his Sri Lanka-based factory opened last March, Thomas Meyer is counting on a very encouraging reaction from clients on the first day of the show to achieve this in 2010. “2009 was a difficult year with huge development costs. There was a lot of uncertainty from clients, we had to offer flexible options, which has an adverse effect on economic efficiency, especially with the huge pressure on prices”, explained the CEO of Bischoff, who is convinced that adapting to the new climate is crucial. The Swiss embroiderer is therefore relying on this new Sri-Lankan unit to better serve its European clients on-site but will also be counting on recruiting local clients who are likely to appreciate the absence of taxes on customs dues, unlike Chinese embroiderers whose costs are increased by between 12 and 18% on finished products.


FORSTER-ROHNER draws a crowd
The first day has exceeded expectations for Forster-Rohner. The creative team had certainly pulled out the stops to offer a collection full of surprises. However, after a difficult final quarter of 2009, during which all decisions were postponed for at least ten days, we could not have been blamed for fearing the worst. Speaking from the ever-crowded stand, the company’s French agent was enthusiastic: “We have negotiated orders that we’d been waiting for months for.” Caution remains the watchword, however: “the first and second quarters are likely to remain hesitant. A number of clients have not made their minds up yet.” One thing is certain: they’re convinced by the new products and are snapping them up without hesitation. Order confirmations are now awaited.


Strength through unity for EMMEGI FERRARIO
After increasing their capital simultaneously, the two Gallarate-based Italian companies, Manifattura Emmegi Srl and Manifattura Ferrario Srl merged last April and will henceforth trade as Emmegi Ferrario Spa. With turnover of €4 million and exports representing 40%, the new entity is hoping to boost competitiveness by significantly reducing costs. “We are tackling the market afresh by participating at trade shows once again, with an enlarged and far more creative collection,” explains Roberto Graziani, Commercial Director of Emmegi Ferrario. Business will now be divided between the intimates sector (formerly Ferrario) which represents 40% of sales and casualwear (formerly Emmegi).


FEINJERSEY launches new Finest collection
It is the finest ribbed fabric ever: “Finest” by Feinjersey is the knit specialist’s latest innovation, which took two years to develop on a new machine. Launched at Interfilière, the Finest range features some fifteen fabrics in a variety of blends (cotton, Modal, etc.). A combination of very special yarns and a highly technical knitting process gives the knit the appearance of a fine, soft jersey with all the comfort and stretch properties of a ribbed knit. After a difficult first-half, Feinjersey, which employs 70 staff in its Austrian production and finishing unit, reported significantly better results in the second half thanks to the success of new developments in micro-Modal blends with silk or cashmere.


ESF offers a recycled polyamide
In order to fulfil the demand for “ecocare” products, European Stretch Fabrics has decided to develop new stretch fabrics in recycled polyamide. In the near future, a full range of colour wovens will be available in a variety of weights priced at less than 10% more than standard wovens. ESF is pursuing partnerships with world-recognized brands and is set to reinforce them in 2010, particularly in the activewear and sportswear market. These R&D partnerships enable high-performance wovens to win back market share from locknits, which dominated the sportswear market until now. Versions boasting very high elasticity, such as Paqastrong, offer far more uniform and regular two-way stretch than locknits.


LES TISSAGES PERRIN boosts sales team
Appointed as Export Director last June, Marija Novcic is keen to fulfil her objectives: achieving 15% of turnover through exports. Priority is being given to strategic countries: the UK, Italy and Spain. Having never exceeded 10% of turnover, exports declined considerably in 2009, a difficult year with an overall downturn of 20% (and even poorer performance in the lingerie market alone). “This first day of the show has featured a strong export presence, with British and Eastern European buyers in particular. There are usually fewer French companies the first day but far more were present usual,” enthused Emeline Cantinol, Communication Manager. Having appointed a new agent in Hong Kong this month, Les Tissages Perrin is planning to step up US business with another new agent.


LIEBAERT multiplies innovations
2010 is sure to be a big year for Liebaert which has come to Interfilière with three noteworthy innovations. The first surprising new development comes in the form of the Nanostitch range, featuring three highly compact polyamide locknits that are so fine that the knit is totally invisible. Upon moulding, it is impossible to see any difference in the level of opaqueness in moulded and non-moulded areas. Highly reactive and, above all, very soft to the touch, these knits offer a very pleasant silky handle and are available in a satin, charmeuse and double tricot version. The second innovation is a range of cosmeto-textiles featuring anti-cellulite (Novarel Slim) or firming knits (Novarel Firming). These two polyamide microfibres are created using the Novarel yarn by Nurel. Since the microcapsules are incorporated into the polymer at the spinning stage, the ingredients remain active throughout the lifetime of the garment (offering 40% activity after 100 washes to be exact). The final new development is an exceptional range of structured knits, created on a Raschel jacquard machine, which combine satin band effects, ladder hemstitch, dotted Swiss and tulle. Achieved thanks to a clever blend of techniques and knit structures, these incredibly creative fabrics pave the way towards hundreds of new combinations.


And the winner is… JUNIOR SRL ARTERICAMI BY ADELE ZIBETTI
Paris Capitale de la Création has elected the Italian embroiderer Junior Artericami by Adele Zibetti as Designer of the Year 2010. A leader in the European market for upscale lingerie, ready-to-wear and swimwear, the company has continued to innovate despite the difficult economic climate, investing in areas such as human resources, expanding its production unit and setting up a quality-control lab. Committed to an eco-responsible development policy, Junior Srl Artericami by Adele Zibetti has always made the most of its activity in the three markets as a rich and productive source of inspiration, further enhanced by expertise in state-of-the-art techniques, laser-cutting, multi-head machines, embroidery-work featuring sequins or gathering, etc. It is this in-depth development of styles and know-how that has been recognized by Paris Capitale de la Création.




Archives

NOYON keen to expand the Glam Panty line
“This new attractive shapewear concept enables us to satisfy requirements expressed by the selective network and specialist chain stores”, confirms Anne-Marie Langry, explaining the success of the Glam Panty. Launched in Autumn, this new product consists of a wide band of lace with placed motifs, which can be used to create high-waisted briefs with a single seam to the rear. It has already won-over manufacturers. “With only two lace designs currently available, we’re even dealing with exclusivity issues”, admits Anne-Marie Langry. Noyon is therefore hoping to offer new designs in the very near future. Creating them is a very complex process, however, since they are knitted with very large repeats. Above all, Noyon is working on new Glam Panty designs, with a bodysuit version which would include a coordinating allover lace to the rear and a bodice trim to the front.


SATAB adopts a 100% eco-responsible approach
Extending the range is one thing, launching a recycled polyester line is quite another. However, Satab was keen to reconcile both objectives and has implemented a new eco-responsible policy in line with requirements. Having carried out an in-depth study of the fabrics and processes available on the market, Satab has decided to offer a range of ribbons in recycled polyester satin created from used plastic. The fully-optimized process does not involve any non-recycled auxiliary products and reduces energy consumption. Compliant with Oekotex standards, the products offer comparable regularity and finish to standard ribbons for a price that is only marginally higher (15%). They can also be produced in other weaves as required.


MAGLIFICIO RIPA launches revolutionary knit
Skin Comfort® is the latest addition to the range of technical knits produced by the Italian knit specialist. Its development has involved close collaboration between the director of Maglificio Ripa, Luca Bianco and Maurizia Botto, who runs the Innovation Project design studio, as well as teaching at Milan’s Polytechnic University.
Skin Comfort® is created using Dryarn®, a highly breathable yarn whose chemical composition prevents it fading, renders it entirely non-allergenic and ensures that it has no harmful or undesirable effects on the skin. It does not combine with any other substance during the manufacturing process. Maglificio Ripa studied the process for knitting this yarn in a dust-proof environment that was isolated from the company’s other activities. Skin Comfort® owes its absolutely smooth and non-irritating finish to specific manufacturing processes on state-of-the-art machines with brand new techniques, which are being kept deliberately secret. Currently tested in the hospital environment and under medical control, Skin Comfort® is the first synthetic fabric to pass the checks and tests previously reserved for cottons with flying colours.


ENCAJES prepares for the recovery
Determined to give itself the means to respond to constantly decreasing prices, Encajes has signed a subcontracting agreement in China. “The market is still difficult but it’s no longer declining. The demand exists, even though our clients tend to spread out their sourcing. The prevailing attitude is no longer negative. On the other hand, there’s still huge pressure on prices”, summed up Michel Machart, the company’s French agent. In 2009, Encajes has concentrated efforts on creation and now offers over 250 designs per season. These designs are created in Colombia and then sent on to the subcontractor. “This helps us offer a rapid response to demand from major retailers in the area”. A percentage of production remains based at the family company’s Bogota site, operating 80 machines. With a client list including M&S, Victoria’s Secret and Calvin Klein, Encajes made its entry into the French market just over a year ago.


HANDEL + DILLER launches ultrafine gauge
After several months of research, Händel + Diller has succeeded in producing a new 44-gauge jacquard machine with its knitting-machine supplier, Beck. The forthcoming collection will therefore feature a whole new line of ultrafine gauge jacquard knits. Since the German knit specialist is now capable of knitting any type of jacquard with any size of repeat, around half a dozen designs have been created to allow clients to judge the fine quality of motifs. A family-run company, employing 45 staff and exporting 40% of production, Händel + Diller supplies over a million metres of knitted fabric a year, all production being maintained in Germany, with dyeing carried out in Denmark and Austria.


WILLY HERMANN goes for recycled cotton
Having already introduced organic cotton to its collection, with a superfine 50-gauge version in particular, Willy Hermann is now opting for recycled cotton. This responsible approach allows the German knit specialist to launch two new knit versions, with or without elastane, created using a yarn consisting of 20% recycled cotton and 80% conventional cotton. By incorporating a majority of conventional cotton, the company can ensure that the quality and solidity of the product is comparable to a traditional knit. The welcome received by this new, partly recycled knit has been judged as satisfactory, since clients respond well to the ethical argument as well as the price, these two new versions being cheaper than conventional cotton knits.


UNION operates Asian factories at full speed
The first European embroiderer to move production to Asia as early as 1992, the Swiss embroiderer was one step ahead of the crowd. Today, Union’s two Asian units are operating at full speed with over 320 staff. While the creative side is still firmly maintained in Switzerland, these two factories handle the most basic qualities and are well-located to serve clients who have delocalized manufacturing to Asia. “We are under huge pressure with regard to prices and it’s mounting on a daily basis. However, Union has a fairly optimistic outlook for the end of 2009 thanks to the accompanying service that we are able to offer,” explains Marcel Dünner.
Henceforth, the company’s Asian factories are responsible for over half of production. The world’s oldest embroiderer, Union celebrated its 250th birthday in autumn.



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